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    哈尔滨新闻网-哈尔滨日报2018-10-21 10:47

      鲍尔吉·原野

      薄薄的云朵围着大哈日巴尔山旋转,

      从这棵树的树叶里钻出来,

      钻进另一棵树;

      天空的蓝色和黄叶子摆在一起,

      仿佛是水彩画家还没画完的画……

      蒙古栎树的叶子变成鹅黄色。它们的叶子都长在高高的树尖上,叶片宽大,风吹来,叶子翻滚得比别的树叶子更迅疾。大哈日巴尔山的南坡长满蒙古栎树,山脚围一圈儿樟子松,好像是栎树的卫士。往阿阑河对岸看过去,大哈日巴尔山好像是一只卧睡中的老虎,头尾金黄。细看,它金黄的皮毛间有一群又一群的黑鸟起落。

      这是图瓦国南部接近蒙古国的地方,我来到住在这里的哈萨克歌手艾尔肯的家中,听他唱歌。艾尔肯说他们这一支族人在西伯利亚已经居住了两百多年,歌曲的旋律和住在中亚的哈萨克人不一样。我听出来了,节奏接近于蒙古长调,还有布里亚特人的萨满音乐的味道。

      阳光从西面的萨彦岭射过来,艾尔肯的毡包门前如同撒了一层金屑,波斯菊的影子尽情拉长。好像它进不来毡房,要派影子进来。毡包里铺着来自阿拉木图的红地毯,松木餐桌上摆满奶制品和野生水果。艾尔肯弹冬不拉唱歌时,大约一分钟看一下他老婆然萨的脸。然萨仿佛有预感,在艾尔肯目光投来的一瞬用眼睛迎接一下,脸略微红一下。每唱一首歌,艾尔肯要看然萨四、五次,仿佛不看就唱不下去或记不住词。然萨每次都没让艾尔肯落空,用眼睛把歌词和旋律递过去。艾尔肯和然萨像两个儿童,或者说生活在戈壁滩上的两只兔子。他们彼此相爱,但他们更爱大哈日巴尔山。他们以崇拜的口气谈论松树、驯鹿、芍药花、露水和风。他们相信世上有妖怪,相信把盐抹在靴子上会使鼠尾草死掉。这不是儿童吗?在图瓦和布里亚特,我见过许多这样单纯幼稚的人。

      天快黑了,艾尔肯和然萨要去山下找羊,我和他们一块儿去。在毡包外,我看到我脱在外面的黑皮鞋里塞满了鹅黄色如丝绸一样的树叶子。我问这是怎么回事?艾尔肯得意地看毡包附近的蒙古栎树,说风把落叶装到了你的鞋里,它们想到中国去。他们俩穿高腰靴子,里面没刮进落叶。蒙古栎树的黄叶子在树上抖动,像一群金鱼逆着激流游动。薄薄的云朵围着大哈日巴尔山旋转,从这棵树的树叶里钻出来,钻进另一棵

      树。天空的蓝色和黄叶子摆在一起,仿佛是水彩画家还没画完的画,白云冲进来阻挡黄与蓝的色彩对比。

      艾尔肯和然萨往山下走。然萨肩上披一块深绿色的雨布,艾尔肯腰上扎着白色的外套。他们戴着哈萨克人的毡帽和绣花帽。我觉得这两个人更像儿童。中国人不怎么戴帽子或乱戴帽,哈萨克人的帽子已是他们身体的一部分。他们恭谨地戴着自己民族的帽子,帽子下是他们纯朴可爱的笑脸。哈萨克人的帽子好像还是歌声的一部分,是草原、雪山和河水的一部分,是艾尔肯和然萨头顶的花朵和树冠。我们往山下走,树的队伍里又增加了白桦树和落叶松。明亮的、毫无声息的溪水在林间流过。溪水把落叶分开,露出水下黑黑的泥土。壁虎般的松鼠从松树上垂直而下或垂直而上,仿佛在搬运自己硕大的尾巴却不知把尾巴放在哪里好。山下有一片开阔的草场,高高的金黄色的秋草尚未倒伏,十几只羊在草里缓缓游动。羊群后面跟着一个七、八岁的哈萨克小女孩,她戴着紫红色的帽子,上面插一根洁白的羽毛。她是艾尔肯和然萨的女儿。女孩朝我们招手,她跑过来,红色的坎肩和白裙子在金色的草浪里跳动。艾尔肯和然萨与女儿拥抱,如久别重逢,估计他们分别只有一下午。但他们都是儿童,儿童比成人更重视亲情并相信神话。外国神话里的人见面先拥抱,中国神话的人见面先打一架比一比武艺。

      我们往回走,羊群走在我们的队伍前面。羊群挑有石头的路走,因为它们是山羊。这些山羊如果没有胡子和犄角,就是一群猴子。它们极为灵巧,人还没看清,它已从石壁的边缘爬上去。我觉得它们如果会采药,早都是富翁了。山羊比绵羊的表情肃穆。有些儿童书把山羊画成学究,它们看上去确实有一些书卷气。回到毡包,山羊排队进了羊圈。毡包前放了好几双鞋,中国产的绿色农田鞋。艾尔肯说,我把鞋摆在这里,让落叶钻进去过冬,明年春天穿鞋的时候,脚上有香味。

    稿源: 哈尔滨新闻网-哈尔滨日报)
    作者: 鲍尔吉·原野 )
    编辑: 卢丙武
     
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